Second time around and better?..
You may or may not have realised, but Tamiya have
brought back yet another classic from the dead!
I say this, as not many of you seem to have bought
one? Why i wonder? A far less complicated affair
than the Hotshot, lighter and better looking with
better suspension. I suppose it's down to taste,
but i just adore the boomy because i used to race
A very straight forward build if you follow the
manual. Just take you're time and enjoy it!
Before you start get yourself some ball bearings,
these old 4WD really benefit from them as there
are many moving parts in those gearbox's. All
available cheap on ebay. Tamiya have included
six of them to get you started inlcuding them
lovely thrust bearings, but you'll need another
18 as follows:
- 13 x 1150 size
- 5 x 850 size
I always like to use a better motor, but not
spend much money. You can use the kit one, but
it will be under powered. These 4WD's need just
that bit more punch to get the best out of them.
I've used a 'GT Tuned' (25T).
Test your radio first, make sure that steering
servo is centred up.
Then get yourself setup with plenty of tea and
Now, a lot of this might seem the same as our
Hotshot article as the cars are very simlar to
start with, but there are differences which are
always nice to read about, right?
Steps 1, 2 & 3, Rear gearbox assembly.
Use plenty of grease and don't be too harsh with
those screws, nip them up slightly.
Step 4, Motor & pinion. I've used a
15 tooth here. Should be good all-round gearing.
If not I'll change to the 13t. Remember to get
the spacing right, use the D5 temp spacer as shown
(18mm from end of motor to outside of pinion)
if you don't, it will soon strip that drive gear.
Step 5, Attaching the motor. Always a very
tricky one on this gearbox. It's those set plates
that are a pain! Best way I find is to mount the
motor first with the top screw and tighten so
you can just move the motor slightly. Then drop
the set plates in the slot. Just feed your other
screw in between the plates and tighten.. Simple!
Don't tighten this screw too much as it sits on
the soft plastic washer (D4) and will distort.
Steps 6, 7 & 8, Front gearbox assembly.
Easy enough. Just use plenty of grease again.
The gear H1 might need a knife or rub down, it
has sharp edges sometimes that can cause the gear
to bind with the H3 gear. Screw the two gearbox
halves together with two screws only and feel
if it's ok with by spinning the propeller joint.
Make sure you remove excess plastic from the bottom
of the gearbox and anywhere else you find it after
cutting parts off the tree's.
Steps 9, 10 & 11, Rear guard and suspension
assembly. I don't use the grease on the screw
pins as I don't see the point. But be very careful
tightening those screw pins up. Don't even nip
them up, just screw in until the head touches
the plastic suspension arm. They crack ever so
Steps 12, 13 & 14, Front suspension
assembly. No problems here, just assemble as per
manual and don't go mad with those screw pins!
Step 15, Chassis assembly.
Straight forward enough. Just be careful with
the two D1 rear body mounts as it's so easy to
rip the locating pins off.. like i did!
Step 16 & 17, Steering servo. Just
make sure you use the proper screw for the type
of radio used and put a little dab of screwlock
on BC10's threads. It WILL come loose otherwise.
Step 18, Fit rear gearbox. So simple and
a nice stage!
Steps 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 & 24, Damper
assembly, and fitting. Very easy to do with nothing
to worry about again. Just don't get any air in
the oil! Pump them good! Fitting the dampers is
another nice and easy step.
Step 25, Attach the front end and make
sure you get the propeller shaft in right. Don't
worry though, there is a spare in the kit if it
Step 26, Fitting the front bumper is another
lovely step! Do not over tighten BD1 and make
sure you use the screwlock provided. Also there
is now a inspection hatch where you can see the
servo saver? Not on the original Boomerang.
Step 27, Front stabilizer assembly and
fitting. Another easy step and don't forget you're
front bumper decals.
Step 28, Fit your radio gear and keep those
Steps 29 & 30, Wheels, my favourite
bit! They might need some glue fitting the tyres
to the rims, but i didn't use any and they have
been ok. Don't tighten the wheel nuts too much.
Step 31, Install your battery. The battery
door is a great idea, the only problem being the
plastic pin that holds your battery in. It comes
out while running! A simple way to cure this is
to bend the pin so it sits in tighter.
Step 32, Drivers ready!? Yes, it's painting
time! I know you all love it, right? It's just
the cherry on the cake so spend an hour sorting
him out and you'll be glad you did. Keep it simple..
1, Spray his head with some gloss paint
and let it dry.
2, Paint his face with a flesh colour and
let it dry again.
3, Paint all the black bits with some satin
or matt paint.
4, While you were waiting for his head
to dry, paint his body.
5, Paint the seat belts with the same black
you used on the helmet.
6, Oh and don't forget the silver belt
Step 33, Chassis lexan cover (same as the
original Super Sabre). Now i didn't use this as
i wanted my driver and roll bar instead. Don't
think it would stop much muck anyway?
Steps 34, 35, 36 & 37, The body. An
easy one to do. Do your holes first. Then start
cutting it all out. Making sure it sits right
on the car. I always use three tools for doing
lexan bodies. Straight scissors, curved scissors
and a sharp knife (scalpel) Makes the job far
easier. Any hard to get to places or straight
lines to cut, use the knife to score into the
lexan. Then bend it until it snaps off. Give it
a really good clean ready for some paint.
I used 4 coats of Tamiya PS1 (white). Now, on
the rear of the cockpit it tells you to spray
it all white, but i didn't as this is different
from the original Boomerang paint job (keeping
it all more authentic). So i masked up the rear
window before spraying.
While your waiting for the paint to dry cut out
These are easy to apply, but keep an eye on how
straight you get the strips. They need to meet
up with the wing stripes ok. If you don't they
look silly. There's only one original decal that
i've used that makes this Boomerang look like
it's from the 80's.. See if you can spot it on
the pics. Now, fit your body and wing and your
Step 38, (not in manual) Fit a vintage
resistor. Finishes it off nicely! And gets rid
of that big space behind the cockpit.
You are now left with a simple'ish vintage (but
new) 4WD that can be proper abused without too
much going wrong. ENJOY!!
Main differences between old an new..
All screws are a different colour, silver now
instead of gold/yellow.
All drive shafts have a ridge in the middle, original
Small inspection hole in front bumper, to check
Front damper spring is same as the rear ones,
original had a smaller harder spring.
Front upright ball connectors are now hex instead
of flat blade screw driver, also black now and
used to be silver.
Decals are slightly different too.
I think that's about it.
A big thanks to my mum and dad for buying me
this for my birthday, loved every second of building
it! And running it!