Article - Boomerang Re-Release Written by: Moosey

Second time around and better?..

You may or may not have realised, but Tamiya have brought back yet another classic from the dead! I say this, as not many of you seem to have bought one? Why i wonder? A far less complicated affair than the Hotshot, lighter and better looking with better suspension. I suppose it's down to taste, but i just adore the boomy because i used to race one.

A very straight forward build if you follow the manual. Just take you're time and enjoy it!

Before you start get yourself some ball bearings, these old 4WD really benefit from them as there are many moving parts in those gearbox's. All available cheap on ebay. Tamiya have included six of them to get you started inlcuding them lovely thrust bearings, but you'll need another 18 as follows:

  • 13 x 1150 size
  • 5 x 850 size

I always like to use a better motor, but not spend much money. You can use the kit one, but it will be under powered. These 4WD's need just that bit more punch to get the best out of them. I've used a 'GT Tuned' (25T).

Test your radio first, make sure that steering servo is centred up. Then get yourself setup with plenty of tea and biscuits.
Now, a lot of this might seem the same as our Hotshot article as the cars are very simlar to start with, but there are differences which are always nice to read about, right?

Steps 1, 2 & 3, Rear gearbox assembly. Use plenty of grease and don't be too harsh with those screws, nip them up slightly.

Step 4, Motor & pinion. I've used a 15 tooth here. Should be good all-round gearing. If not I'll change to the 13t. Remember to get the spacing right, use the D5 temp spacer as shown (18mm from end of motor to outside of pinion) if you don't, it will soon strip that drive gear.

Step 5, Attaching the motor. Always a very tricky one on this gearbox. It's those set plates that are a pain! Best way I find is to mount the motor first with the top screw and tighten so you can just move the motor slightly. Then drop the set plates in the slot. Just feed your other screw in between the plates and tighten.. Simple! Don't tighten this screw too much as it sits on the soft plastic washer (D4) and will distort.

Steps 6, 7 & 8, Front gearbox assembly. Easy enough. Just use plenty of grease again. The gear H1 might need a knife or rub down, it has sharp edges sometimes that can cause the gear to bind with the H3 gear. Screw the two gearbox halves together with two screws only and feel if it's ok with by spinning the propeller joint. Make sure you remove excess plastic from the bottom of the gearbox and anywhere else you find it after cutting parts off the tree's.

Steps 9, 10 & 11, Rear guard and suspension assembly. I don't use the grease on the screw pins as I don't see the point. But be very careful tightening those screw pins up. Don't even nip them up, just screw in until the head touches the plastic suspension arm. They crack ever so easily.

Steps 12, 13 & 14, Front suspension assembly. No problems here, just assemble as per manual and don't go mad with those screw pins!

Step 15, Chassis assembly. Straight forward enough. Just be careful with the two D1 rear body mounts as it's so easy to rip the locating pins off.. like i did!

Step 16 & 17, Steering servo. Just make sure you use the proper screw for the type of radio used and put a little dab of screwlock on BC10's threads. It WILL come loose otherwise.

Step 18, Fit rear gearbox. So simple and a nice stage!

Steps 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 & 24, Damper assembly, and fitting. Very easy to do with nothing to worry about again. Just don't get any air in the oil! Pump them good! Fitting the dampers is another nice and easy step.

Step 25, Attach the front end and make sure you get the propeller shaft in right. Don't worry though, there is a spare in the kit if it breaks.

Step 26, Fitting the front bumper is another lovely step! Do not over tighten BD1 and make sure you use the screwlock provided. Also there is now a inspection hatch where you can see the servo saver? Not on the original Boomerang.

Step 27, Front stabilizer assembly and fitting. Another easy step and don't forget you're front bumper decals.

Step 28, Fit your radio gear and keep those wires tidy.

Steps 29 & 30, Wheels, my favourite bit! They might need some glue fitting the tyres to the rims, but i didn't use any and they have been ok. Don't tighten the wheel nuts too much.

Step 31, Install your battery. The battery door is a great idea, the only problem being the plastic pin that holds your battery in. It comes out while running! A simple way to cure this is to bend the pin so it sits in tighter.

Step 32, Drivers ready!? Yes, it's painting time! I know you all love it, right? It's just the cherry on the cake so spend an hour sorting him out and you'll be glad you did. Keep it simple..

1, Spray his head with some gloss paint and let it dry.
2, Paint his face with a flesh colour and let it dry again.
3, Paint all the black bits with some satin or matt paint.
4, While you were waiting for his head to dry, paint his body.
5, Paint the seat belts with the same black you used on the helmet.
6, Oh and don't forget the silver belt buckles.

Step 33, Chassis lexan cover (same as the original Super Sabre). Now i didn't use this as i wanted my driver and roll bar instead. Don't think it would stop much muck anyway?

Steps 34, 35, 36 & 37, The body. An easy one to do. Do your holes first. Then start cutting it all out. Making sure it sits right on the car. I always use three tools for doing lexan bodies. Straight scissors, curved scissors and a sharp knife (scalpel) Makes the job far easier. Any hard to get to places or straight lines to cut, use the knife to score into the lexan. Then bend it until it snaps off. Give it a really good clean ready for some paint. I used 4 coats of Tamiya PS1 (white). Now, on the rear of the cockpit it tells you to spray it all white, but i didn't as this is different from the original Boomerang paint job (keeping it all more authentic). So i masked up the rear window before spraying. While your waiting for the paint to dry cut out you're decals. These are easy to apply, but keep an eye on how straight you get the strips. They need to meet up with the wing stripes ok. If you don't they look silly. There's only one original decal that i've used that makes this Boomerang look like it's from the 80's.. See if you can spot it on the pics. Now, fit your body and wing and your done!

Well nearly....

Step 38, (not in manual) Fit a vintage resistor. Finishes it off nicely! And gets rid of that big space behind the cockpit.

You are now left with a simple'ish vintage (but new) 4WD that can be proper abused without too much going wrong. ENJOY!!

Main differences between old an new..

All screws are a different colour, silver now instead of gold/yellow.
All drive shafts have a ridge in the middle, original didn't.
Small inspection hole in front bumper, to check servo saver?
Front damper spring is same as the rear ones, original had a smaller harder spring.
Front upright ball connectors are now hex instead of flat blade screw driver, also black now and used to be silver.
Decals are slightly different too.

I think that's about it.

A big thanks to my mum and dad for buying me this for my birthday, loved every second of building it! And running it!

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